It was mid June and my girlfriend Arolin asked about having a pig roast.
I was
born in Tampa, FL and my family is Cuban. So roasting a pig is a big part of my
traditional culinary make-up. As a young
boy, my Abuelo Matilda (the name coming from him and I watching Harry Belafonte
live on TV) began to teach me how to roast a whole pig the Cuban way. Once my
grandfather moved to Tampa he had a roasting pit built in the back yard. That
pit has been the center focus of Christmas and New Years for over 30 years. Ask
any Cuban and they will talk about the Lechon, "Roast Pig", made for Noche Buena, 24th
December.
The 24th of December is when we celebrate Christmas dinner. Roasting the pig began two weeks prior to Noche Buena. For many years we had a family friend who would slaughter the pig and
hang to age and firm up the meat. Two days prior to the 24th we would harvest the sour
orange off the tree in my back yard to make the traditional Mojo.
This mojo is the major flavoring in
making a Lechon. Once the pig reaches our home, we would create pockets with the tip of a kinfe into the ham and shoulder area. To then plunge
smashed garlic and salt into. We would heavily season the pork with salt. The
key is to marinate skin side down. Abuelo always told me to be very careful not to pierce through the skin. By heavily salting the skin it would draw out
moisture so to help achieve the crispy skin. Having crispy skin is very important, simply because its the best part. After salting the pig, the prepared mojo is then poured over the entire pig and between the pockets. The pig would then marinate for 2 days until the big day for roasting!
As a child, sleep would not come lightly with the anticipation of starting the roast. Waking in the early hours we would to start the day long process. We'd start by lighting the fire. My Abuelo would tell me that the fire was
the most important part of cooking the pig, slow, low, and indirect heat was
the key to success. Once the we light the fire, you must let the ember turn grayish color, we lift the pig and place the pig in-between two large roasting racks on top of rebar. The pig is suspended the air from the direct fire. The pig is always started skin side
down to insure a slow render on the skin. After 2-3 hours the skin should be
golden brown and ready to flip. Once flipped another 3 hours of slow roasting is
needed. When finished the meat should fall off the bone.
Needless to say, when Arolin eagerly asked to roast a pig I eagerly took the opportuntiy to share a piece of my childhood and Cuban Tradition.
Up-holding
my family traditions, I made some modification to my roasted pig. I began with
finding a 40# pig from Vermont. I still seasoned my pig with a mojo but added some thyme and sage. The pit was a free-form structure made by my MIT
housemates. The day started as a small gathering
that turned into a larger gathering of local cooks and MIT students talking about the science of
food. We topped off the party with a left over beer keg, tomato corn salad, black beans, and yellow rice. A few Cuban cigars later, we all had a great time!
Traditional Mojo
3 cups Sour Orange Juice
10 cloves Garlic
½ Olive Oil
1 Tbsp. Oregano
2 Tsp. Cumin
¼ cup Salt
Or this is another sauce that could be used
Marinado de Batidora
“Cuban Chimichurri Marinade”
1/2 bun Parsley
½ bun Cilantro
1/2 bun Oregano
3 ea. Bay leaf, fresh (dry ground)
6 cloves Garlic
1 med Onion
1 med Red Onion
6 whole Black peppercorns
1 c White Vinegar
3 C Olive Oil
Salt
Blend until smooth.
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